Winchester Thurston Middle School Blog

Elementary School 

“Are you ready???” 

“Yes, I’m ready.”’

This message was repeatedly echoed throughout the walls of the elementary school. The energy level was high in the elementary school among teachers and students and this greeting was used consistently throughout the day and with great enthusiasm.  We greeted the students as they arrived to school this morning.  They were excited about our arrival and quite animated.  We noticed clusters of 1^st grade students adorned with yellow school hats.  Yellow hats are the trademark of 1^st grade students and you will see them in the
Tokyo streets sporting yellow hats so they can be easily identified.  This is to prevent traffic accidents on crowded
Tokyo streets.  The pedestrians and cars often times are sharing the road and space is very tight so this is a good measure in prevention.  Most students walked together in groups.  A few were escorted by a parent or an older sibling off to junior high school.  One set of junior high school students wanted to know if I was Condoleeza Rice.

There were many surprises for the day.  I think this day broke many of our cultural stereotypes and expectations.  One of the greatest surprises of the day was level of activity in the classroom.  I expected quiet children sitting in rows.  It was rare that I saw a child sit- let alone be quiet.  The elementary classroom was loud and noisy with lots of energy.  The kids were in constant motion and they were climbing all over everything and each other.  We later learned that this is a cultural norm.  The traditional American norm of students walking down the hallway in two lines will not be found here and is not a cultural expectation.  The students appeared to be happy and involved.  There were also many opportunities for play as well.  I think we had three 10 or 20 minute breaks for recess or break.  I thought I was going to see kids studying non-stop.  Once again a stereotype exploded before my eyes.

When needed, the students could be refocused to a particular task.  This was particularly evident in the recitation of Eric Carle’s Brown Bear, Brown Bear with amazing precision and execution.  In addition, the elementary band could rival any high school marching band in the States. The performance was outstanding and high quality.  The students played from memory and the result was incredible.  The teachers gave the students a standing ovation and requested an encore, which they happily obliged.  It was a treasured memory and experience.  You almost had to see it to believe it.  The same members of the band were also members of the chorus.  The students sang with vigor and enthusiasm, but without reading music. Amazing.  I found it hard to believe that these were the same students who were climbing all over each other a few minutes before.

We also participated in an earthquake drill.  This was similar to our American fire drills, but without the sea of aluminum padded cone hats that students wore outside to the courtyard for drill attendance.  Students had the safety hats in their desks in case of emergency and they frequently had practice drills.  Emily sensei, the elementary principal, was delighted to have set a new record for evacuating students out of the building and taking attendance in under 4 minutes.  The principal had even arranged a simulation earthquake experience for the 1^st and 5^th grade to participate in after the drill.  Some of the JFMF teachers participated in the drill simulation experience of a 5 point earthquake and found it be incredibly realistic.

The day was filled with assorted activities in addition to brief classroom visits.  I had lunch with a second grade class.  Students served each other lunch and they waited until all students were served to eat.  The lunch featured a marinated swordfish steak.  All of the teachers were impressed with the featured menu.  After lunch I was asked to sign a series of autographs for the children.  I was littered with origami paper and a line of 30 students waited their turn to have their paper signed.  Despite the language barrier students continued to converse with me in Japanese.  They were surprised to learn that I could neither, speak or read Japanese.  Their teacher and I tried to converse as much as possible.  It was painful at times for both of us- but we did it with a smile and great satisfaction.

We witnessed an English class for 3^rd students and the lesson was impressive.  All of the teachers observe the English classes at the end of the day and then they do an afternoon faculty meeting about the English class.  Teachers talked about their struggles with learning English and provided feedback to the team teachers (one was a parent) about the lesson.  After the faculty meeting we had a chance to share our thoughts and questions.  It was a good dialogue, but we were exhausted mentally and physically.  We had a good overview of the elementary school and it was interesting to see an elementary school trying an innovative approach to teaching students English at an early age. Normally English is not taught until junior high school.  The principal, Emily sensei, prides herself on building an English language program for her elementary school children.  It was impressive to see this program in action.  What you saw the beginning of students knowing more than the teachers in some ways and this defies the Japanese educational structure where students absorb the teacher’s knowledge.  I am sure this must be uncomfortable for many of the teachers and it reminded me of the technology divide that many American teachers face with their students facility with the latest technology.  It was interesting to see the same dynamic through a different lens and remember that as teacher we share the same goals and concerns despite the ocean that divides us.

Junior High School 

Climb High,

Climb Far,

Your Goal the Sky,

Your Aim the Star

This poem can be found throughout the hallways of the school.  It is shared often with the students by the principal.  I was struck by this poem because it was the same poem engraved at Hopkins Hall on the

Williams
College campus.  I could not believe that I traveled to the other side of the world and I came face to face with a poem form my college career and one that I have also shared with the Middle School students of the WT community.  The coincidence was a powerful moment. 

This was the final school visit and it was amazing!! The tone at this school was inspiring.  Students are encouraged to be ambitious and to achieve individual goals.   The teachers were passionate about their craft and excited to share their classrooms with fellow educators.  Teachers appeared to enjoy teaching and their passion inspired students.  Everyone looked like they were having fun learning in this community. The junior high school includes what we would call 7^th, 8^th, and 9^th grade students.  Although it is a public school, all students wear uniforms.  On the lapels of their uniforms each student wears a pin indicating what section they belong to.  The students are proud to attend this school and the school even boasts a Nobel Prize winner for his initiatives in science.   The principal (a former Social Studies teacher) has been with this school for three years already so he will be changing schools once the school year has been completed next spring.  This junior high school is well regarded in the community as a strong school.  80% of its graduates go on to universities. They have five different schedules- 1 for each day of the week.  9 elective subjects are offered to each student.  Sweeping and cleaning are mandatory components of the school experience.  Everyone takes turns in taking care of the school.

There are no guidance counselors here.  Each teacher needs to be responsible for the needs of every child.  Teachers are busy with future course guidance, life guidance, and teaching.  The faculty reminded me of independent school teachers and the multiple hats we wear.   Counseling the mind is important work and they accept problem children rather than excluding them.  They believe that all schools need to be able to deal with these issues. 

The first class I went to was a physical education class.  Physical education classes are divided by gender and this was a boys’ class.  Students were actively engaged in basketball drills with no students passively participating.  Baseball has long been a favorite sport of junior high school students.  However over the last two years the interest in basketball has spiked considerably and basketball has become a hot new sport.   

When I visited the music class I was in awe of the depth of precision with the middle school chorus.  Boys and girls were singing with gusto and a student was conducting the chorus as the teacher listened intently to observe what needed to be improved.  Music education is compulsory for all grade levels and genders.   Another student played the piano.  The academic leadership could be consistently found in each classroom.  The teachers trusted students and held high expectations.

The science class was full of positive energy. Students were making rock candy as part of their experiment that they had designed themselves.  Although safety equipment was not obvious to the eye, students were behaving responsibly and appropriately during the class period.  Students shared the candy they made with the JFMF teachers.  They were not inhibited.

What I was struck by this school was the inherent belief that middle school students have the ability to leader.  They share the leadership and they are responsible for leading their community.  The student council created an action plan for the year that was presented to and voted on by the entire student body.   Agendas were written by the students and circulated to the entire student body who was present during this special assembly.  The students even selected the music that was being played during lunch as well as the lunch menu.  They take their leadership roles seriously.  Students contribute to daily chores with vigor and enthusiasm and they took pride in all aspects of school life.  Students concluded each class with a bow and departing greeting in unison to the teacher.  That was amazing and unexpected!!

Summer vacations are interesting.  Students are not required to come in, but teachers may call students to come in to school to study.  Some students come to school to prepare for next year’s lessons.  Teachers are considered public servants and they are guaranteed their jobs 12 months out of the year. Teachers are required to work during winter and summer vacations. 

When asked about what the Japanese educational system does well the teachers remarked that they wanted us to know the following:

• Teachers and students are proud to be here
• Teachers love school
• Students depend on their teachers
• Students trust their teachers and we in turn trust them
• Unity of school is very important
• We are good at uniting all as one
• Community is very important to us

However the weak point is that because they spend so much time building a community they have difficulty highlighting each personality.

A final note, this description may sound too good to be true and the students were perfect angels.  Rest assured- what I saw that day reconfirmed that Middle School students are Middle School students regardless of the culture or society.  I encountered giggling girls, boys roughhousing, lots of physical play, loud laughter and physical awkwardness.  Developmentally appropriate behavior could be found in the hallways and in the stairwells.  It was refreshing to see kids being kids.  This visit dispelled a lot of stereotypes that I had about Japanese students being extremely serious and studious.  I witnessed delightful jokes and lighthearted banter.  Students were invested in their schoolwork, but they were passionate about life as well.  They cared about their friendships and looked forward to having a good time.

Meeting with Parents

At first when we looked at a two hour session with parents we thought we could never fill the time with questions.  What we discovered was that we didn’t have enough time to cover all of the topics that captivated our attention.  The parents discussed a variety of issues with candor and humor.  With four parents present representing a variety of elementary and junior high schools we were able to get a good cross section of ideas.

One of the fundamental differences between teaching styles of Japanese and Americans schools as perceived by parents was something described as the respect and request model.  In
Japan, teachers make requests of students first to learn the material before respect is given.  Teachers request that students acquire knowledge first.  After you have mastered the knowledge that has been requested then comes respect.  In the
US, respect comes first. American teachers are perceived as respectful of the individual child’s needs and strengths.  Once a teacher knows about the individual child a request is made to acquire knowledge based on that students’ ability.  American teachers are thought to have greater skills and capabilities for this reason since they are able to address the needs of the individual child.

Some of the challenges recognized by parents include:

• Changes in communication styles and the ability to wait.  Parents remember the arrival of 7 Eleven in 1975.   There is 24 hour availability and access to orders via internet.  Kids do not have to communicate with people.  A society has been built where kids are not patient with waiting.  The kids who grew up in 1975 now have their own kids and it is hard to tell kids to wait and the need for communication.  Many members of this new generation are used to getting everything now.
• Family size is getting smaller and there is an urge on behalf of parents to overprotect their child.  There is difficulty in allowing kids to grow up.
• Decreased number of 1^st and 2^nd grade teachers is leading to large class sizes. 
• Asking parents and teachers to smile more at students and provide encouragement.
• Monster parents- the Japanese Board of Education wants to sue monster parents, but the PTA does not support this action but finds itself in the middle between the parents as well.  The PTA has served as a mediator between parents and teachers to keep the lines of communication open.  Suing is not part of Japanese culture although some monster parents have already been threatened with a lawsuit.
• Juko attendance (cram schools) makes significant gaps between those students who have the resources to attend and those who do not.
• Students need the opportunity to find answers to resolve issues.  After high school students will be asked to create answers from nowhere.  Japanese students on a whole have great difficulty finding an answer on their own- in that way Japanese education is not sufficient.
• With the masses of families moving out of the city there is a decrease of number of students and this creates a reduction in club opportunities.
• 10% of parent population attends PTA meetings.  Individual class meetings for parents will generate at least 50% of the parents.  In primary grades the number reaches 100%.
• Crime prevention is a major concern for parents.  Since no firearms are allowed by law most parents feel their children are relatively safe.
• The rapid transformation of educational initiatives is hard for parents to keep up with and they are not necessarily convinced by the program until they see the types of careers selected by HS graduates in the new school models.  Some parents find these new initiatives confusing.
• Japanese instruction is one way with children absorbing the knowledge given In American schools teachers listen to students’ opinions and actively encourage students to think of careers at an early age. (ie. What do you want to be when you grow up?) In
  Japan, nurturing the basic academic skills in primary level to junior HS is the main focus.  Students begin to think about careers after junior high school.
• Hiki komori- Boys who stay at home.  This is a growing trend that is giving the society pause for concern.   Many parents believe that the primary issue relates to communication problems.  Parents do not believe that these children are staying home because of school violence or bullying.  However they also acknowledge that there are many kids who are working very hard to get an education and they are trying to find ways to get out of the home.
• Parents are looking into online educational experiences and opportunities for their children.

Parents indicated that the development of a PTA website has increased parent participation.  The PTA board that represents the city of
Ota Ku is elected.  Each school has its own PTA and 4-5 people are selected from each classroom.  Many of the parents know each other (especially in primary and junior high schools) since most students attend schools in their local neighborhood and walk to school.  Parents assist with the development of cultural events and some fundraising initiatives as well.

It appears that many of the issues that parents face in the States are also found in
Japan. No matter what the country is, parents want the best educational experiences for their children.  We often struggle with finding the right balance of nurture and rigor, but in the end it is the school-home partnership that bridges a child’s academic success

Technology
Park 

I was not sure what to expect when I arrived at Ota Ku’s technology park industrial center.  I knew based on my visit to the Mayor’s office that Ota Ku was famous for craft production.  What I learned at the industrial site was a reinforcement of Japanese culture and society.  The facility focuses on an integrated communal approach to the manufacturing and production of materials.  It is a vertical relationship of factories where they work to support each other in the development of items.  However there is no final product that is visible to see.

The facility visited is really an apartment building of factories.  There was space for 48 factories in the apartment building.  Many of the factories are small based companies, but approximately 4 medium sized companies were also located in this facility.  Here are a few findings about industry facts and figures:

• 99% of the factories in Ota Ku are small and medium sized companies. 
• 70% of factory employees are employed by small and medium sized companies.
•  There are 5,000 small and medium companies in Ota Ku.
• 80% of the 5,000 factories are responsible for machinery metals.
• 50% of factories have less than 3 workers.
• 82% have less than 9 workers
• Most of these factories are very famous despite small size

The factories do not mass produce products, but make prototypes that support larger companies.   They are considered highly value added because of the factories’ small size and personal attention to clients.  The turn around time for production with small businesses tends to be quick.

What was surprising to me was how much factories blended into the city landscape.  You can often find factories side by side residential homes.  They blend into the environment and you may not notice that there is a factory next door to a home because they are fairly nondescript except for a small sign.  The majority of the factories are in the middle of residential areas and you will not have an impression that there are factories around the area.

In many respects the technology park fits the same description as above.  The apartment building looks like any other apartment building.  As a matter of fact, there was an apartment building next door that housed many of the factory employees next door.  The apartment of factories was built to address issues of individual factories affecting community residents.   Although there are emission standards that must be maintained, many of the neighborhood residents were affected by the smell and noise levels produced by factories. Using the factory apartment concept the noise and smell levels are less than the restrictions of the city.  A factory seal of approval is given to those factories who have excellent emission and environmental standards.

The apartment building was built by tax payers dollars.  There is a waiting list of factories that want to be housed in the factory apartment.  Since they can only house 48 factories and there are 5,000 factories in Ota Ku there must be a rotation of new factories to maintain a sense of fairness.  Factories are allowed to stay for 7 years but they can apply for a 5 year extension.  There is a need for an additional 2,000 units based on the waiting lists, but they can not meet the needs of every factory.  In 12 years they can grow and get stronger so they are able to survive on their own.  Rent for the apartments is cheaper than factories on their own.

Current challenges faced:

• # of factories is declining as well as amount of shipment
• Recession is impacting the economy and loss of jobs due to factory closures
• Lack of successors for factories
• Fewer number of students who want to work in factories

The apartment factory has developed an internship program for students to mentor future craftsman.  Unfortunately, not all factories can take part in this program because the level of skills may be too high for an unskilled laborer.

One of the highlights of this experience was learning how the value of the community is intertwined in the factory industry.  There is a sense of responsibility to the industrial community.  Factories rely on each other and the development of goods.  There is a factory network where various factories work independently to produce a product but at the same time collectively where there is a sense of collaboration in the creation of individually produced products.  In business, there is affirmation where a sense of communal relationships is maintained to achieve a common goal.

Koreans and Japanese

Koreans are the largest minority in
Japan. Old Koreans have been
Japan for 3-4 generations, yet they are still not Japanese. As a major minority they are ethnically different, but racially similar. Koreans and Japanese may look the same but this adds to a layered complex relationship within the country’s history and current cultural experience. Since nationality and ethnicity are closely tied for Koreans and Japanese, this becomes problematic when defining heritage. Your nationality comes from your Japanese parent(s) lineage. If either one of your parents are Japanese you can choose Japanese as your nationality. Many Koreans will marry Japanese and thus the children will choose the Japanese nationality. In order to become a citizen you have to exchange your nationality. There of families of Korean heritage who have spent their entire lives in
Japan and have even been born here. Yet they may not be able to speak Korean but will try to retain their cultural identity and are careful not to say anything about Japanese nationality. They may even use Japanese names through assimilation and not use their Korean names at all.

I find this aspect of Japanese culture absolutely fascinating. There is an entire subculture that is not fully explored. The book, Lost Names, provides a glimpse of some of the Japanese- Korean relationship through the eyes of a Korean boy who lives through the Japanese occupation of
Korea. Yet there is little information about the current Japanese-Korean relationships. It appears that Koreans are very much like second class citizens. It appears that there may be some prejudice that exists towards Koreans in
Japan. Schools where there were sizeable populations of Koreans were described as low achievement schools with loud boisterous settings. What accounts for poor performance of Koreans in Japan, yet when compared to PISA results
Korea ranks high in both math and science achievement? This aspect of Japanese culture is not fully discussed anywhere and it is hard to find out more about this.

University of
Tokyo

Tokyo Education Part 1

We started our tour of our prefecture assignment, Ota-ku, with a tour of

University of
Tokyo. We were greeted by the Dean of the

School of
Education. The
University of
Tokyo is one of the oldest educational institutions in
Japan. It was formally established in 1870 and currently is made up of 10 undergraduate schools, 15 graduate divisions and 10 research institutes. There are 2,700 Professors and associate professors on staff, not including 1,300 adjunct professors. Currently 15,000 undergraduate students and 14,000 graduate students attend the university. The

University of
Tokyo is second to Harvard in publications. In the

School of
Education there are 50 professors, 350 graduate students (149 PhD and 194 Masters) and 200 undergraduates. The destination of education graduates vary- 58% of undergraduates go to Business and Government and 35% go to graduate school. The Education department is not geared towards teacher training, but research. As a whole the entire university is research focused.

Education has become a big political issue due to growing trends that have many concerned. Some of those trends are as follows:

• There are a lot of universities and not that many students to fill the seats
• The majority of students in higher education attend private institutions unlike the
  US where 75% of students attend public institutions
• The government has allowed the growth of private institutions since the 1960’s, but now it is difficult to keep public institutions open
• Majority of teachers are tenured and there is worry about “sleeper teachers”
• Monster parents are of great concern to the Board of Education.
• The popularity for junior colleges is decreasing
• Much controversy about children with psychological problems who cannot attend school. This is a problem since education is compulsory.
• It is illegal to have students to stay home form school, yet there is no infrastructure in place for home school situations
• Growing loss of respect for teachers and other public servants
• Rewards in pay scales are not given for masters degrees ( in any area- not just teaching) Many teachers could not afford to go into teaching with graduate level degrees.
• Motivation concerns are plaguing institutions since there are students how can now enter without entrance exams. This was unheard of 20 years ago.

Education Part 2

There two main components of the education reform

• Whole Person education
• Communal education (known as Character Education in the
  US)

Each prefecture has its own set of exams that students need to take in order to attend upper secondary school. You have to pay to take the test from Junior HS to

Upper
Secondary school. Only if you attend a private or national school prior to

Upper
Secondary School can you be exempted from the exam. Most students go to public school. High school is not compulsory, however if you do not go to high school you are in the minority. People will want to know why.

Moral Education

Moral education was abolished after the war and now it is reestablished. Many do not know what to do with it. It is very controversial, especially in
Okinawa. Time is allotted for this period. Special activities for clubs are also included in this period where non academic experiences are introduced. The day starts and ends with a classroom activity. English activities are introduced during this time. This is believed to have time dedicated to educational goals that are non academic that compliment each other in building a whole person. The focus is to build a classroom community.

Classroom management is delegated to a group or pair of students. The shared leadership is a communal emphasis of character education. Even the child who does not want to be involved has to because he is part of a group. Lunch and cleaning chores are done as part of a group. The focus is not solely on the students completing the tasks but peer pressure as well. If one student forgets a task, it is the responsibility of the group to remind that student. Chores are cooperative and they are rotated by groups called hans. The han is a group of students who get to now each other through a cooperative set of chores and community expectations. The han reminded me of our advisory groups at WT. The types of chores given make life richer and there are chores that are essential. The hans list of responsibilities and chores may rotate but the goals remain the same and the expectations are clear. There is autonomous group management where kids are doing this on their own and teachers are not managing this. It is important that this aspect is self regulated by students away from adults. Hans take turns with different community chores. There are han rotation wheels for different chores. Lunch is served in the classroom and students serve each other.

The teachers also work in a communal environment. Grade level teachers are clustered together and the faculty room has a communal tone and structure. There are lesson studies where teachers observe each other to learn from each other. Teachers have desks in classrooms, but they spend their down time in the faculty room. City school class sizes can get as high as 40 students. If they reach more than 40 the class is split into 2. Some
Tokyo schools have classes with as few as 9 students. Inner city schools can be relatively small because there are not many families in the city.

The government chooses where teachers and principals are assigned. Principals change school every 3 years and teachers move 7 years or less. Teachers can not choose the grades of their choice. High school and Jr HS may be able to request specializations due to backgrounds. Nor can you choose your own school. There are no promises you will be where you want. Elementary school teachers teach everything (all subjects, art, music, PE) MEXT sets a national curriculum. However the high school may vary the curriculum according to specific areas of focus- some may be the arts others may be vocational. Jr. HS and Elementary schools are primarily a neighborhood experience. Students are sorted by ability in high school. You can get into some high schools with only recommendations although this is NOT the norm.

A Bulleted List of
Tokyo Observations

Dear Friends,

With a week left to go before I return to the sates I decided to write a list of cultural observations for you to review. I have tried to state only the observable and not include my interpretation. However I am only human and they slip in from time to time. J I hope you enjoy these thoughts. They are in no particular order:

• When speaking to a group, the individual stands up to speak.
• Indoors you will find warm temperatures despite the weather outdoors.
• You will find very few people talking on cell phones.
• You do not hear any ring tones because cell phones do not ring.
• You will find a large number of people texting on cell phones.
• Cell phones are decorated by men, women, youth, and old.7 Elevens are plentiful and offer good quality sushi boxes at reasonable prices.
• Starbucks are not found on every corner (or every other corner).
• Detour coffee shops however are plentiful.
• Subways and public places are very quiet.
• In public places, groups of Americans are usually louder than groups of Japanese.
• 
  Tokyo is a very clean city.
• It is almost impossible to find a garbage can in the city.
• Sanitation workers soap and clean the public streets and walls of office buildings.
• People use public transportation or bikes to get around the city.
• People do not lock their bikes when they go inside a building.
• People do lock their umbrellas in stands when they go inside a building.
• Parking is hard to find and is very expensive.
• Most cars look new. There are few SUV’s or large minivans. (only 1 Hummer detected)
• You see a limited number of gas stations.
• Bean paste desserts are plentiful and varied.
• It is common to see small pets (dogs) dressed in assorted doggy clothes.
• Dogs can also be found in doggy strollers as well.
• A large number of ads (mannequins) feature Western models.
• Front baskets on bikes are used for dogs and small children.
• Babies and small children are not often seen in the community.
• Desserts are not featured at many meals- however fruits are.
• Police boxes are stationed at busy streets and intersections.
• Presentation of food is very important.
• Aesthetics are important for presents and food.
• Japanese people typically only greet (say good morning) people they know.
• Very little technology is seen being used on the streets (ie. Ninetndos and MP3 players).
• Office ladies can be found in most businesses. They serve coffee, pastries, and maintain paper supplies. There is no upward mobility.
• You bow to people when you greet them.
• It is possible to find a bilingual program from 7-9 in the evening.
• You are expected to bring a gift when visiting a family and/or friend.
• You offer to pay at least twice before allowing someone to pick up your tab.
• There are women only subway cars during morning rush hours on Mondays- Fridays.
• Vending machines sell hot and cold drinks including soft drinks, coffee, and beer.
• 
  Tokyo is an environmentally conscious society:
  • Water Conservation featured everywhere
  • Trees planted to help produce CO2
  • Napkins are rare. People carry their own cloth hand towels
  • Strict emission standards for cars
  • Paper cups are reused at meetings and names are written on cups
  • Penalties for keeping a car more than 3 years
  • Recycling programs standard in schools
  • Environmental concerns are not about what Japanese are doing to the environment but what can they do to preserve the environment

October 20^th - Children’s Day and the Giant Buddha

Saturday was our free day to explore Japan. Some people went to Mt. Fuji and many visited Kyoto. I decided to take a trip to Kamakurra which an hour train ride away. Once outside of Tokyo the demographics changed tremendously. The streets were narrow and the cars drove slowly so they would not hit the many tourists lining the streets. The sidewalks were narrow as well. Many say Kamakurra is like the “old Kyoto”. Kamakurra is filled with many temples including the famous Giant Buddha. You need to pay to visit many of the temples. I purchased a prayer book at the first temple. The book has blank pages and you take it to each temple so you can have prayers written inside your book. The cost for a written prayer is about 300 yen each. At a temple you can pay for incense so you can pray for the person who the temple was built for. There are sometimes prayer walls where you can pay 100 yen and shake a box and pull out a rod with a number. You find the number on your rod along a row of fortune boxes. You pull out a slip of paper to read your fortune- it can be good, bad, or in between. If it is a bad fortune you tie the bad fortune to a special area to release the bad luck. Before the temples you should purify your hands at the fountain. After the incense prayers you should wash your hands and mouth out as well to cleanse yourself spiritually.

The first temple in Kamakurra was in honor of soldiers. The grounds were immense and were quite big. There were many buildings erected in the compound and you could visit each one. Some had statues for each god and people left coins for the god they were praying to (ie. health, good fortune, fertility). There were ponds and an abundance of natural beauty. It was amazing to be in the countryside and soak in the trees and serenity. The temples had a calming and peaceful effect on you when you visited. There was tremendous appreciation for the altars and physical space surrounding the areas. There was even a shrine there where it was said Confucius’s tooth was buried. On occasion you would even see a Buddhist monk present either praying or walking around. I also learned that the temples were Buddhists and the shrines were Shinto.

I went to one shrine in Kamakurra and was delighted to find a Shinto wedding taking place. I watched the wedding in awe and took many photographs. The bride and groom wore authentic wedding garments. The bride even wore a traditional wig that was very heavy. The building and altar where the wedding took place was in a pavilion in the middle of the grounds. There were hundreds of people passing by. Some were visiting a bonsai display while many were families celebrating 3, 5, 7 day. To my delight I was able to see young children dressed in traditional kimono. This special day usually held in early November was held in October because the weather was so beautiful. The Japanese can be fluid in their celebration of special events and holidays. 3 year olds, 5year olds, and 7 year olds went to the temple to receive a blessing to celebrate each stage of development. It was wonderful to see multi generations present for this special day. Most children wore traditional kimono, but some wore western style clothes. It was a very festive and joyous occasion. The little girls wore makeup, had traditional sandals, and special coordinating purses. Some enjoyed being dressed up and others looked incredibly stiff and uncomfortable. Many of the mothers were also dressed in kimonos. Of course I took tons of pictures. On your way out of the shrine you could find stalls filed with candy, candied apples, masks, and toys. It looked like a fair or festival.

After the shrine we continued onward to see the Giant Buddha who really was giant!!! You could even pay to walk under the feet of Buddha. I was amazed at the number of people and tour groups at each temple and shrine. The Giant Buddha had the greatest number of visitors by far. We met a variety of people here. There was an international flair here. Yes there were many Japanese people here- but there were Indians present as well as many people from all over the world. There is a story that this Buddha was found out at sea after one of the floods and had to be brought back to its location. I am not certain how that could be done given the size of this statue. It is an amazing piece of art to behold. I had my prayer book filled here as well.

We visited several more temples. Some were free and others had a fee. Many of the free temples looked like the maintenance was done by fewer people. Some temples looked like backyard gardens and you were not sure if it was someone’s backyard or not. Most had a sign describing the importance of each temple. I found the purpose for each temple to be quite interesting. There was even a temple for divorced women. At one of the smaller temples we found a young family showing their son how to pray at the altar. The parents instructed their young son to clap his hands three times then say a prayer. At the end of the prayer he was to ring the gong. I also saw a young mother trying to show her young children how to do the similar prayer at the Giant Buddha- but it proved more challenging.

The end of our tour of Kamakurra concluded with a walk to the beach. The beach was delightful and refreshing. It was neat to see the windsurfers and the surf shops near the shoreline. Due to the gorgeous fall day you could find many people in wetsuits on the water windsurfing. There were a number of fishing boats stacked and fishing nets folded on the far side of the beach. There was great beauty in watching the landscape near the water. We decided to end our trip on this high note and return to the hotel after a snack of green tea ice cream. We had walked for close to 10 hours and we were exhausted.

Once back in Tokyo we went to a Japanese fast food restaurant called Mos burger. Mos burger is similar to McDonald’s in that it serves fast food style hamburgers. However that is where the similarity ends. At Mos burger you place your order and take a seat and the servers bring your meal to you. There is jazz playing and most people are quietly reading books. I had a teriyaki chicken burger with buns made out of rice. It was a quick and delicious meal. The combos are called sets and my set included a Coke (No diet) and fried potatoes (French fries). After our dinner we walked back to the hotel and called it a night. We had an amazing day after visiting a more rural setting and it was a great comparison to Tok

October 19^th - Japanese Government

Today we had the great fortune of meeting with members of the Diet. We learned about the concerns of the Diet and were told that the war in Iraq was still a big issue despite Japan’s withdrawal of troops. The Japanese since they are American allies feel the threat of supporting the US. We learned that the Japanese political structure has many similarities to the Western world. They have two houses:

• House of Counselors (House of Laws)
• House of Representatives (House of Commons)

Both houses have equal rights and they can not pass laws independently of each other. Yiu can also keep your Diet seat and have a job in government.

Since Japan has no natural resources their focus is different. They must rely on the talents of their people. It is almost like the people have become the resources. The educational reform effort is necessary and technology initiatives are key components to the national agenda.

The government faces an aging society with 27%of its population is 65 years old or higher. The marriage rate has declined over the last 30 years. The birth rate is declining with the average household having 1 child. In order to maintain the current population the birth rate should be doubled. The infant allowance enhances the social expenditures and encourages families to have more babies. Births have gone up 30,000 since one of the female Diet members has been in office.

Since the government is prioritizing economics it does not have the resources for social issues. Little of the government’s per capita expenses are used on education and the arts. Gender equality issues are challenges as well. Since a growing number of women work there is a need for childcare facilities and gender equality policies related to childcare leave. Women have rights but they have to exercise it more consistently. Gender policies and practices are not mainstream in the workplace. Work environments are not particularly good for female workers and there is a need for a shift in culture in embracing women in the workplace. Women need to work 2 or 3 times as hard as men and it is recommended that you brush up on English to be more marketable.

It was interesting to hear about the role of women in Japan and the changing demographics. One of the Diet members present was a woman and she spoke from her Fulbright experience as well. It was evident that she would be considered a minority and she was definitely a role model for women. She was educated in America and attended Harvard. But despite these accomplishments she felt that she had to do more to be recognized for her ability. She believed her knowledge of English helped her move ahead so she could be recognized as a professional woman. She said she read the English newspaper out loud each morning to brush up on her English. She was sensitive to the issues of the working woman and felt a great deal of accomplishment with the births of 30,000 more children since she was in office. She feels like a mother to all of them. She believes that if you are not using women, you are losing half of the brain power. Instead of the Japanese government looking to other immigrant groups for new ideas- they should consider the efforts and wisdom of the female population. It appears that this philosophy is not shared by all and she is certainly working hard to be an advocate for women’s issues. I wonder if her experience in the US helped to shape her views. Perhaps seeing the level of opportunity in the States helped crystalize her views because she could see some of these achievements in practice. She reminded me of a modern day Susan B. Anthony. A champion of women’s rights, she is hoping to empower other women to use their voice and set higher goals and standards. She was an inspiration to hear because it appeared that the culture was not set up with that goal in mind, yet it was her reality because she had achieved it despite the odds.

Hiroshima Survivor Session

October 19th

So far one of the most remarkable experiences of my trip was the session with Hiroshima survivors. This session featured two Hiroshima survivors- a second generation survivor as well as a first generation survivor. As a second generation survivor(I had never heard of this term before) she told her father’s story. The description and images revealed profound death and destruction. The bombings left deep mental and physical wounds. Her father did not think he was lucky to be alive and had an immense sense of guilt. Many of the survivors blamed themselves for the deaths of family and friends. Even many years after the attack, survivors would have a difficult time finding jobs and getting married due to the threat of radioactivity. Many second generation survivors suffer from rare forms of cancer (thyroid and tear duct)

Hiroshima residents did not initially know they were exposed to radiation until a doctor noticed that his x-rays were “whited out” when he went to read them. It was discovered that massive dosages of radiation were within the Hiroshima environment. People were not prohibited from entering the city after the bombing in order to search for relatives thus exposing themselves to harmful radiation. 350,000 people lived in Hiroshima at the time of the attack and 140,000 of those people died by the end of that year.

The survivors apologized for their role in the war and are on a mission to promote peace. Many can not speak about peace without first apologizing. Second generation survivors live in fear of developing a radioactive disease, there is a strong possibility this will happen. If that does occur the prefecture (city) will cover the costs of treatment for a radioactive disease. The second speaker spoke about her father’s Quaker beliefs and how he was treated by the Japanese government because he objected to the war. Her father was made to be a human guinea pig, did physical labor and worked in mental hospitals with no protection.

The last speaker, a Hiroshima survivor, spoke about his experience. He remembers being in school for only 6 days when the bomb was dropped. He described that air raids as a common part of life and he remembered looking up at the sky and seeing 2 beautiful planes flying in the sky above15 minutes into class. What he remembers next is simple, yet alarming. He turned his eyes back to his textbook and then there was an explosion that was quickly followed by a hot heatwave and a strong flash. The school was 2 kilometers from the center. The center of the city was 4,000 degrees for the first few seconds. Mr. Matsushima remembers that there was deadly quietness but no screams. As he walked a friend to the hospital he saw people with their hair standing straight up due to the radiation, charred and ripped clothing, dangling wires, and fire everywhere. He described the injured as a “procession of ghosts” and the whole city was covered by a cloud of smoke. Mr. Matsushima was one of the more fortunate survivors. He suffered from cuts, fever, and dirarrhea. He recalled that at the time he did not believe in surrendering, but could only think of the strength of the bomb that the US had created. The doctors did not know how to treat radiation. Mr. Matsushima reflected on his thoughts on America and the A bomb. He had a deep anger towards the A bomb itself, but not he people. Once the war was over and American GI’s came in to rebuild the city there was no reason to hate people.

Mr. Matsushima spoke of his childhood educational experiences where he was taught to do whatever you could to win the war. He remembered being excited about the Pearl Harbor attack and the success of the Japanese military in striking America. He was struck by America’s carelessness about Japan and the disbelief that this small country should be feared. A member of the JFMF delegation from Oregon spoke about the Balloon Bomb in Oregon. Mr. Matsushima knew about this successful attack on mainland America, a fact that many Americans are not aware of.

The goal of his public speaking engagements is to promote peace and cooperation for the future so we never repeat this mistake again. He remembers thinking after the war was over that we need to overcome anger and bitterness so we can try to be good friends. There needs to be a reconciliation of spirit after the war. That is one reason why the Fulbright program is so well regarded in Japan. The Fulbright program allowed Japan’s intellectual elite to study in the US so they could return to Japan and rebuild the infrastructure that was destroyed during the war. It is really amazing to see Japan rebound from the war. Many Japanese put conversations in historical contexts of “Before the war” and “After the war”. WWII left an marked impact on the culture and the people of Japan. The Japanese have proven themselves to be resilient and have made it a life long mission to promote peace. You will find origami cranes all over the country and the peace sign held up for any photograph with a young adult or younger. The country is consumed with peace and have made it a national agenda item.